How to Build a Concrete Slab Without Hiring a Contractor

Building your own concrete slab isn't just possible, it’s practical. Whether adding a parking pad, creating a new patio, or laying a shed foundation, taking the DIY route can save thousands of dollars while giving you total control over your project.

Contractors often come with high price tags and long wait times. But with the right tools, the right mix, and a little planning, homeowners and concrete contractors are completing slab projects on their own and getting pro-grade results. One tool that’s changing the game for concrete work? The MudMixer®.

What You’ll Need to Build a Concrete Slab

Before you start digging, gather the tools and materials that will keep your project moving. Having everything ready to go not only saves time but also helps avoid mistakes, especially once the concrete is mixed and time is ticking.

Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll need and why it matters:

Pro tip: For larger slab pours or multi-day DIY projects, organize your tools by task — layout, excavation, form building, mixing/pouring, and finishing — so you're always a step ahead.

Concrete Calculator: How Many Bags Will You Need?

One of the most common questions DIYers have is, “How much concrete do I need for my slab?” The answer depends on your slab’s size (length × width) and thickness. Most residential slabs, like sidewalks, patios, and shed bases, are poured at 4 inches thick.

To help you estimate the amount of concrete you need, we’ve put together this quick reference for common slab sizes using 80 lb bags of concrete:

This chart is based on the rule of thumb that one 80 lb bag covers about 0.6 cubic feet of concrete.

Pro tip: Always buy 10% more concrete mix than you think you need. This helps you account for spillage, overfill, or last-minute adjustments to depth or shape. It’s better to have extra concrete on hand than run short in the middle of your pour.

Step-by-Step Guide to Pouring Your Own Concrete Slab

No matter what you're building, following a clear process is what keeps your project on track. Here’s how to go from bare ground to a smooth, solid concrete slab — without hiring a concrete contractor.

1. Measure and Mark the Area

Start by laying out the slab’s footprint with precision. Don’t rush this part. Small errors in measuring now can cause big issues later.

• Use a tape measure to mark the length and width of your slab

• Drive wooden or metal stakes into each corner

• Run a string line around the stakes to define the edges

• Check for a square using the diagonal method: measure corner-to-corner both ways. If the measurements match, your corners are 90 degrees.

Pro Tip: Mark the outer perimeter a few inches larger than your final slab to give yourself room for the form boards.

2. Dig and Level the Ground

Next, it’s time to prepare the site. This means removing organic material and creating a solid, level base for the slab to rest on.

• Excavate to a depth of 4–6 inches depending on your slab thickness

• Use a shovel and rake to remove roots, grass, and loose soil

• Add a 2–3 inch layer of gravel or crushed stone

• Compact the base using a hand tamper or plate compactor until it’s firm

A well-compacted and level surface base prevents your slab from settling unevenly over time. If the ground feels soft underfoot, it’s not ready yet.

3. Build Your Concrete Form

Your form boards define the slab’s size and shape and keep the concrete contained as it’s poured. You want them strong, straight, and well-secured.

• 2x4 or 2x6 lumber works for most mid-size to small slabs

• Cut boards to length and nail or screw them together at the corners

• Drive stakes every 2–3 feet along the outside of the form to keep it from bowing

• Use a level and tape measure to check that the top edge of the form is level across all sides

• If you're near a house or structure, slope the slab 1/8" per foot away for drainage

4. Add Base and Reinforcement

A strong slab starts from the ground up. With the base compacted and your form ready, it’s time to reinforce the slab to reduce cracking.

• Compact a 2–3" layer of gravel or crushed stone

• Lay rebar or wire mesh across the form

• Elevate reinforcement with bricks or chairs to keep it off the ground

• For small slabs, wire mesh is usually enough

• For driveways or parking pads, rebar spaced every 18–24 inches provides added strength

5. Mix and Pour with the MudMixer®

Now comes the fun part: pouring concrete. With the MudMixer, you can skip the frustration of batch mixing and wheelbarrows.

Here’s how to do it right:

1. Position the MudMixer near your slab and connect your garden hose
2. Adjust the water dial to match the mix instructions on the bag
3. Drop in your first few bags of concrete
4. Watch as the mixer delivers a steady, continuous flow of concrete through the chute
5. Fill the slab in sections, working back to front
6. Use a rake or shovel to move the mix into corners and along edges

Why it works: Traditional drum mixers take 5–7 minutes per batch. The MudMixer lets you pour as fast as you can load bags, keeping your momentum and mix consistency intact.

In the Mix: Pouring a 20x40 Slab Using the MudMixer

See how simple it can be to tackle a big DIY slab. In this video, a homeowner uses the MudMixer to pour a 20x40 concrete slab in manageable sections over two days. No truck, no batching, no stress.

6. Screed, Float, and Finish

With the concrete in place, now’s the time to make it smooth, flat, and ready for curing. The first few minutes after pouring are the most important.

• Grab a straight 2x4 board and use it to screed across the top of the forms

• Move in a side-to-side sawing motion while pulling the board forward

• Fill in any low spots and screed again until the surface is level

• Use a bull float to smooth the surface and bring up the cream

• Edge the slab with an edging trowel to round corners

• Cut a control joint every 4–6 feet using a jointer tool or saw to prevent random cracks

7. Curing and Final Touches

Concrete hardens quickly but continues curing for days. Proper curing gives your slab long-term strength and durability.

• If it’s hot and sunny, cover the slab with plastic after floating

• Keep the surface moist for the first 48–72 hours by misting it lightly 2–3 times a day

• Avoid walking on the slab for at least 24 hours

• Don’t drive or place heavy objects on it for 7–10 days

Remember: Most of the slab’s strength develops in the first 7 days, but it continues to cure and gain strength for weeks.

Curing Tips Based on Climate

Getting the curing process right is just as important as a clean pour. Climate plays a big role in how your concrete slab sets, so it’s worth planning around your region’s typical weather.

Hot/Dry Climates

Cover the slab with plastic sheeting or wet burlap immediately after finishing to slow evaporation and prevent surface cracking. Pour early in the morning and mist the surface regularly during the first 24 hours if uncovered.

Cool/Wet Climates

Let excess water drain before covering, and extend curing time to at least 3–5 days for stronger results. Protect the slab from rain using plastic sheeting or a tented barrier.

Avoid Pouring in Freezing Temperatures

Avoid pouring if temperatures may drop below freezing within 48 hours, as this can damage the slab before it cures. If cold weather is unavoidable, use concrete blankets or heated enclosures to keep the slab warm.

Tip: Always store bags of concrete mix indoors and dry prior to mixing, regardless ofthe climate.

Can I Pour in Sections Over Multiple Days?

Yes. Pouring in sections is a smart strategy for larger slabs, especially if you're working solo or over multiple days. Just be sure to end each pour cleanly with a temporary form or bulkhead and align the next section with a control joint or seam. For the best results, try to pour adjoining sections within 24 hours and maintain consistent mix and water ratios throughout.

Troubleshooting Common DIY Mistakes

• Slab cracked? You may have skipped a control joint or poured in high wind.

• Mix too wet or dry? Adjust your MudMixer’s water dial. Stick to the bag’s water content guide.

• Crumbling edges? Check if your forms were braced properly.

DIY Success Story: “Paid for Itself Instantly”

“Contractors wanted $9,000 to pour a parking pad next to our house. I purchased the MudMixer and did it myself. Myself and two other guys poured 300 bags in 6 hours. MudMixer paid for itself in one job.” – Mark F., Homeowner, DIY project

DIY Slab Projects You Can Handle With MudMixer

With the right prep and the MudMixer by your side, there’s no shortage of DIY concrete projects you can take on. Just keep in mind that slab thickness will vary depending on the project’s purpose.

Here are some of the most common slab projects tackled by homeowners and small crews:

• Concrete patios – Great for outdoor entertaining spaces; typically 4" thick with rebar or wire mesh for added durability.

• Parking pads – Usually 4–6" thick to support the weight of vehicles; rebar reinforcement is recommended.

• Sidewalks and walkways – Typically 3.5–4" thick with a slight slope for drainage and wire mesh to minimize cracking.

• Shed foundations – Requires a stable base; slab thickness depends on shed size, usually between 4–6".

• Post base footings – Small slabs or piers used under deck or fence posts; must meet local code for depth and diameter.

• Driveway sections – Ideal for replacing damaged panels or expanding an existing drive; usually 5–6" thick.

• Small concrete slab repairs – Fill in low spots or damaged corners with a 2–3" pour, using bonding agents for better adhesion.

• Concrete countertops – Advanced DIY project requiring specialty forms and finish tools; slabs are typically 1.5–2" thick.

Tips for Better Results

Even small adjustments in how you plan and pour your slab can make a noticeable difference in the final product. These practical tips help you get cleaner lines, stronger concrete, and a smoother finish:

1. Start early on a warm day to give yourself enough working time before the sun speeds up curing.

2. Keep extra concrete mix nearby in case you underestimate or need to top off a section.

3. Use a short piece of rebar or a ruler to check that your slab maintains a consistent depth throughout.

4. Clean your MudMixer immediately after use using the built-in hose system to prevent dried mix from clogging the auger.

5. Work in sections for large slabs, pausing to screed and finish each area before moving on to the next.

6. Slope the slab away from structures (1/8" per foot) to help water drain and prevent pooling near foundations.

Why MudMixer is the Right Tool for the Job

When it comes to pouring a concrete slab yourself, having the right equipment makes all the difference. The MudMixer was built specifically for jobs like this. It takes the hassle out of mixing, reduces manpower, and delivers a reliable pour every time. Here’s what makes it stand out:

• Built from high-strength steel

• Mixes 45+ 80 lb bags per hour

• Continuous mixing = no more batching

• Water dial allows precise, consistent control

• Flat-free tires for mobility

• Backed by a 2-year warranty

• Replaces the need for 2–3 workers

Build Your Slab with Confidence

Pouring your own slab is one of the most satisfying DIY projects you can take on. With the right tools and a little prep, you can get it done on your schedule, without the price tag or pressure of hiring a crew.

MudMixer makes the hard part easy — from mix to pour to cleanup.